Thursday, April 22, 2010

Just to let you know

  Hi, Just to let everyone know.  We are back home now.  On the trip home we didn't take the time to stop and upload photos or update the blog.  But I will get to that ASAP.  There is so much to do here at home and getting unpacked. 
  There are two more weeks coming to the blog.  The first week will be of our visit with Thomas' daughter Michel and her family.  The next week will be our trip heading home.  Colorado was beautiful.

Be back soon.

Thursday, April 15, 2010

3/26-28 Whaleshead Vista through Humbug Mtn St Park

3/26-28/10 Friday to Sunday Whaleshead Vista thru Humbug Mtn


Photos:  http://silverserenity.shutterfly.com/1927

Last night I didn’t feel well and this morning is some worse. With luck it will pass soon and will be back to normal. We decide to go on and take it slow.

One of the first things to make note of was crossing the Thomas Creek Bridge. This is the highest bridge in Oregon at 345 feet. Next was Gold Beach. We crossed the Rogue River. This river is known for its water sports. It begins to rain again. Plans are made to stop at Humbug Mountain State Park for the night. Humbug Mtn is 1,756 feet in elevation. This is one of the few times we actually paid to stay in a Park.

Pulling into the park, it was really vacant. The host came out to meet us and told us where everything was including the private beach which was accessible only from the park. After finding a place to park Thomas walks back to pay for the site.

The rains have let up. Thomas wants us to walk to the beach before the sun sets. He thinks the walk may do me some good. While not pleased with the idea, I go. Turns out, it was a good thing.

The private trail goes from the back end of the park through two mountains and beside a river flowing to the sea. A bridge stretches above for the highway to pass by without even really getting a view of the beach or the campground. The wind funnels through this valley pass and makes for a really breezy walk.

Upon entering the beach area you are greeted by driftwood everywhere. Large logs to tiny pieces clutter the access. It seems that Oregon is known for its driftwood beaches. Today there are a couple of other people on the beach but there’s more than plenty of room for everyone.

Clouds have given way to open sky on the horizon. Brilliant orange and yellow burst from the suns hiding place behind the last low cloud. A mixture of water sounds from the crashing of the waves and the flowing of the river mix with the whistling of the wind. Sunset is an hour or so away. The sky to the horizon holds promise of things yet to be. Color floods the shoreline with each wave that slides to gain more footage on the shore. Rocks and sea shells are left on the smooth sand to make ripples in the receding waves. The sun is kissed by a small cloud. Time to go back and finish setting up before the sun is totally asleep for the day. (Photos 4671-4694)

This park has the most glorious showers. The hot water is almost too hot at first but settles into a perfect temperature. Best of all there is no restriction on the amount of water. (I am not sure if I mentioned it before but we are taking showers with anywhere from ½ to 1 gallon of water each. Never thought that could happen but it can.)

By later night, I am feeling better. The nights sleep was good and very quiet.

Saturday and a bright sunny day is in store for us. No one else is on the beach which spreads for more than a mile off to the right of the river. A long stretch of the beach is mostly sandy. Then it turns rocky. After exploring for a while we decide to sit and have lunch.

A fishing boat appears to the left and makes its way looping around to the right. Out from the shore are a couple of large rocks. When the fishing boat passes in front of the first rock, the size of the rock is more apparent. It is more like an island than a rock. I take another photo with no zoom on to give an idea of how it appears to us from the shore. While the second rock is much smaller, it becomes more impressive also. (Photos 4695-4698)

On the shore a long log has been imbedded by one end into the sand. The end closest to the water is jutting out of the sand and begs to be climbed on. I ease up on it and fight the wind to keep balanced. On the mountainside which probably caused the log to stand up was the only flower found in this area. It was a small wild iris. (Photos 4699-4707)

After a short nap on the beach, it was time to explore. The tide was going out. Wet sea plants glowed in the sun give the appearance of flowers. The tidal pools were awash with life and color. The tidal pools of Pacific Grove were wonderful but these have it beaten. Anemone of various sizes and colors waved in the breeze of the currents. Snails and hermit crabs hurried to find food or travel to another spot while the torrential waves were not beating down on them. Their shells were mostly in mute colors but then some were a bright gold or even orange. Patterns and texture added to their décor. A tiny crab froze and then scampered off to go about his work. (Photos 4719-4731)

Then appearing crushed between two rocks was a bright orange starfish. No, wait, there was a brown one also. The orange starfish was moving off to the left away from his friend. While its movements were slow it flowed across the rocks. Other starfish were found clinging to rocks out of the water. The first orange starfish was now stretched out fully on its way to other places. (Photos 4740-4751)

Anemones which were a weather faded plastic green color were plentiful. Each new pool that explored brought more and more wonders. The anemones varied in size and color and shape. Starfish were plentiful in both the orange and brown shades. The more you looked, the more you found. Starfish clung to the rocks both in and out of the water. Muscles flourished in large clusters on the now exposed rocks that they called home. They varied in size from babies to about 5 inches long. For hours tidal pools were fun to explore. Never again will I come to this coast without rubber wading boots.

The tide was starting to come back in. It was time to call it a day. The sun shown on the algae covered rocks. They appeared to have been painted with gold. Our footprints were still the only ones on the beach. Heading back we found something. Neither of us knows what it was and it appeared to be alive but wouldn’t come out to show it’s self. After turning it over and hoping it would live, we continued with out trek back to the main part of the beach. (Photos 4752-4807)

Back at the campground I took a photo of the side of Humbug Mtn that was constantly wind blown. It looked like someone had pruned it into a smooth surface. Another nice thing this campground did was to provide receptacles for your grey water, like sink water, to be disposed of in. We decided to stay another night and by Sunday morning, we were the only campers there. This has been a great place to stay but it is time to move on to more adventures. (Photos 4808-4816)

Saturday, April 10, 2010

3/25 Elk Valley Casino to Whaleshead Vista

3/25/10 Thursday Elk Valley Casino to Whaleshead Vista
Photos:  http://silverserenity.shutterfly.com/1865

On the road again at 10:30am. (No, I did not try the casino again.) Heading north on Hwy 101 we made Brookings, Oregon before stopping for gas at $2.79 per gallon. Another first for me – The Oregon Coastline.

A cold almost constant rain has set in. Outside of the fuel stop, no other stops because of the weather. The main focus was to not drive too long in this windy rainy weather, find a place to overnight. This spot was found at Whaleshead Vista Point. There were no signs saying no overnight parking and this is a beach access and access to the Coast trail. So we give it a shot. (Photo 4610)

We decide to take the hike down to the beach. Did you catch the word “down”? The weather has turned to on and off rain but with an almost constant wind and gusts. This requires the down coats and frog toggs rain gear. It took a while but we made it down without slipping on the slick trail.

The California coastline is wonderful but Oregon has it beat for the ruggedness and the waves that kiss her shores contain a wild ferociousness that is undeniable. Hiding behind a huge rock on the shore to block the wind, we took photos. Photo 4616 shows the mist being blown off the waves onto the distant shoreline. A lone elk had ventured onto the beach and left only its prints behind. (Photos 4624 & 4625)

Off to the left side of the beach was a cave. (Photo 4631-4634) The whole inside of the cave was a green rock. (Why is our geologist friend Ed back at home when we need some identification? “Not-to-worry” Ed we found plenty for you to identify when we get home again.) Towards the back of the cave is a hole out the upper side. Just guessing but this could be a blow hole for when the ocean comes in and fills the cave. Photos taken from the back of the cave looking outward made some interesting photos.

I found part of a sand dollar on the shore and then started looking for more. Then there on the shore was a small white circle. Surely not with the waves bashing the shore! But it was. A whole sand dollar. Well, if one survived maybe another? Shortly I found another larger one. It was truly amazing that twice something this fragile could have made it through the pounding surf and was placed gingerly upon the sand.

Time to head back up to the trailer and have something to eat. After eating and rest the Coast trail called to us. The rains had stopped and the wind died down some.

This section of the coast trail appears like a great place to hike. The forest has moss covered trees and ferns that were as tall as bushes. At the start of the trail on the post was a really large banana slug. We crossed a creek via a bridge. Skunk cabbage was blooming from it’s home in the water. There was a noticeable lack of wind in the forest. But as soon as the trail turned out and ventured onto the coast the breeze returned. Once again the trail turned into the woods. Water could be heard rushing along. A waterfall came into view. An offshoot trail took you down the cliff to where the whole waterfall could be seen as it flowed down toward the sea. On the main trail someone had carved a bench out of wood in the bank to view the waterfall. The trail continued on farther south along the coast but we didn’t go much farther. It was getting dark and cooler. Time to back track.

Rain showers could be seen building out on the ocean. But we had to stop and view the sun making its way out from behind the clouds. Rays of sunshine burst out and lit up a small area of the sea. As the sun set the golden spot moved toward the shore. In this tunnel of brightness birds could be seen flying in the circle no doubt looking for their last meal of the day. Rain made it to shore to the south of us and was moving our way. But we had to wait for the sun to finish its dance before heading very fast to the trailer.

Drying out and having a warm meal and a good night sleep was all that was left to another beautiful day.

3/24 Clam Beach to Elk Valley Casino

3/24/10 Wednesday Clam Beach to Elk Valley Casino

Photos:  http://silverserenity.shutterfly.com/1833

Last night our friends around the campfire mentioned Agate Beach where you could find agates on the shore. They planned to go and see what they could find. Then this morning while we were getting ready to leave a lady told us not to miss Agate Beach. So it looks like that will be on the list of stops for the day.

First we stopped at Trinidad State Beach. This was a nice beach. Like the rest, not many people. We did find a few really pretty rocks on the shore. Off to one end were several large rocks. Most of the rocks in this area have lots of color to them. People were sitting on them just watching the day go by. It was a nice place for a lunch or just to pass some time.

Driving back up the steep hill to the main road we passed the Memorial Lighthouse. This lighthouse overlooked a sheltered cove in which several boats were docked. The rugged coastline to the left was in contrast to the cove on the right.

Agate Beach is located inside of Patrick’s Point State Park. The walk down to the beach was steep and long. The only way to access the beach is via the park. The last part of the trail had washed out under the wooden walkway and was tedious getting the final way to the beach.

There weren’t as many agates as I had thought there would be. But still it was another nice beach. Large pieces of driftwood held a waiting invitation for a lunch break. The waves were large and the wind was fairly calm. And who wants to head back up that hill anyway?

On the long walk back to the top several surfers were headed to the beach. Surprisingly they were from their late forties to maybe sixty. The were old enough to know better than to be surfing especially in cold water. But it is their joy and you could see it in their faces as they hurried down the trail.

After finally reaching the top, we paused to watch them for a bit. Strangely they were all off to one side which had a rock just under the surface instead of out in the middle where the larger waves were. But then what do we know about surfing? Maybe for some reason it was better here even with the danger of the rock. One guy finally caught a wave and rode it in a little ways before wiping out.

A few miles farther up the road were the Redwood National Park and State Parks. At Elk Meadows elk were lying in one field watching their daily entertainment of tourists stop to snap photos. This group kept a close eye on us ever ready to dart if need be. These are not tame by any means. Signs warn of trying to approach them. Several elk viewing fields are marked along the road.

Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park was a really nice park but was too overpriced for this time of year, the lack of services and the cramped spaces for campers to park. After a walk through the redwoods, we decided to venture on to find somewhere else for the night’s stay.

It’s getting late, rain keeps threatening to engulf us. Nothing is presenting itself for a good overnight location. OK, just keep going and stay open for a serendipitous event to occur.

We see a sign for a campground and also a casino at an exit. How funny…after investigating, neither was open and probably hasn’t been in years. Keep going.

Trees of Mystery. The lady this morning said this was also a must see. It is 5:10pm and probably too late. Yes they are closed but we were able to go through the gift shop and museum of Indian artifacts. Outside was a huge statue of Paul Bunyan and his Blue Ox. Signs are posted for no overnight camping so we hit the road again.

Another sign - Elk Valley Casino. We are getting closer to the south of Crescent City so maybe this will work out for the night. We follow the way the sign pointed but there were no more signs. Ok, if we don’t find it soon maybe we better turn around and keep going north. Then a dead end. Off to the far right…that might be it. We pulled in and looked at each other. This place was fairly small and was built like a metal outbuilding. Nothing fancy. Good sign, another RV was parked in the parking lot. A security guard passed by behind us and Thomas went to talk to him.

When Thomas came back he looked like he had struck gold! He said, “Not only will we be parked here tonight, we will be eating all you can eat Prime Rib and Seafood Buffet for $10 each!” And there it was the beginning of a serendipitous event!

The guard showed us to a gravel lot off to the right which was posted as no parking. He told us to park here and he will tell the late shift that we will be staying there. Buffet starts at 6pm and we would need to get a players card for the Buffet. We were both so excited but weren’t sure what we would get. I mean, this is a little no nothing place with absolutely nothing around it anywhere. Surely no one would be here.

Upon entering, the place was packed. The security guard was at the desk when we got there and told the ladies who we were. We got our players cards and they put $5 free play on each card for us to gamble with. Going into the room where the Buffet was served was another surprise. We were going to have to wait for a table! Where did all these people come from?

The meal was delicious to say the least. Probably the best and most we had eaten in a while. When we were able to move, we went to a slot machine. Thank you very much for the wonderful buffet, the $10 total free play and the $30 we won. This is a must stop when in the area! If nothing else but for the Wednesday night buffet! Everyone at this casino is super nice and extremely friendly.

A good night sleep in an almost deserted lot with security watching out for us and the rain pattering on the metal roof. Can it get any better?

3/23 The Redwoods

3/23/10 Tuesday The Redwoods
Photos:  http://silverserenity.shutterfly.com/1773

Past Garberville the signs to the Avenue of the Giants signs start to show up. The Avenue of the Giants and Hwy 101 for the next 30+ miles you take you through the largest redwood park in the CA state park system. There are over 50,000 acres of magnificent forest of which some 17,000 acres are old-growth redwoods. The coastal redwoods, the tallest trees on earth, reach heights of over 300 feet and live as long as 2,000 years. (Photo 4513 sign)

How could we not take the Ave. of the Giants? Almost immediately the redwoods closed in on us. The sun light was filtered out by the density and heights of these truly wondrous trees. The redwoods were divided into named “groves”. We stopped at the first pull off to venture into and walk among these trees.

Viewing from the road was one thing but to stand beside or inside the base of one of these trees was even more awe inspiring. They give a sense of wonder…just to know how much longer they have been here than we have. And how much longer they will live than we will. You truly feel small and miniature in their presence. On the forest floor it is cool and damp and serene. A mystical wonderland surrounds you. Trillium was in bloom everywhere. There are no words to express how you feel when dwarfed by these giants of nature.

Our next stop was at the Pioneer Grove. One of the first amazements was the remains of an old tree now with just the moss covered base as a memorial to its life. The center of the tree has been long gone and space was left for climbing into. I laid down on the remains and it would have taken two of me to reach across one side. The hollow inside was almost 5 feet deep. Just as with the first Grove this one proved no less spectacular.

One giant had fallen. I took a moment for a photo of me sitting on the ground beside her. (Photo 4546.) At this point I didn’t know how close I was to either the top or the bottom. A short time later we found the root end. This specimen had pulled up from the ground many years ago. The roots were mostly gone now and there was a slice into the center cavity of the tree. Photos 4553 and 4554 show Thomas and me inside the fallen tree. Our adventure continues through more of the Groves and along the rest of the Ave of Giants with much the same wonder. Maybe we will stay longer in Redwood National Park which is north of here.

Eureka was the next stop along the trip. With gas prices around $3.23 we opted to continue on a little farther hoping for the price to drop. The station farther up the road was $3.25. We made Arcata before getting only $40 to hold us over.

Tonight will be another night on the beach. Clam Beach is a city park. There is a day use only park and just up from it a camping park for $10 per night. There are several people staying here but it isn’t nearly full.

We talked to several of the other campers. A couple shared their campfire with us. We had another glorious sunset over the ocean. California is a great place for their beaches and sunsets.

3/23 Healdsburg to Garberville

3/23/10 Tuesday Healdsburg to Garberville
Photos:http://silverserenity.shutterfly.com/1707?size=All&startIndex=0

On the road again at 8:45am, well, until we found a Starbucks.

This is very interesting and beautiful country. The hills are soft and rolling. Everything is so green. Once again, vineyards cover the hillsides. The hills become mountains and moss hangs on the trees. We pass the Russian River. The vineyards continue to sprout up.

We pass the city of Hopland which is known as “Home of California’s first Brew Pub.” Ukiah was also a neat city. Deer were spotted close by on the hillside.

The next town was Willits. Willits is the “Gateway to the Redwoods.” From Willits Hwy 101 is also known as the Redwood Highway. Willits looked like a really neat town, quaint and eclectic. We should have stopped here to look around but this will wait until another trip. On into the mountains again it is 11:45am and 55*, nice weather.

A rest area near Laytonville called to us to explore and stretch our legs for a while. Finding a short trail we headed into the woods. More moss hung from the trees. Fallen trees had been taken over by ground cover moss. Everything seemed so damp and alive right down to the smallest particle. Mushrooms sprung up from their hiding places. This setting seems out of place when considering that the ocean is only 15 miles to the west as the crow flies. In addition to the nice rest areas, this area has really great pull offs beside the road to take a break.

The road continues on with beautiful scenery. Beside us now flows the Eel River. The Eel River is a very beautiful river as it meanders teasingly from one side of the road to the other and back again.

Next on this road of sights we come to The Tree House. Thomas has been here before and took a photo with his two daughters beside the carved bear (Photo 4477.) The Tree House has a house inside the base of the tree. Being early in the season, it was closed but I took a few photos of the outside. In Photo 4478 you can tell how large the tree really was compared to our trailer. We both posed beside the tree and Thomas had another photo with the Bear. Also interesting was a wood carving of a seahorse. She was probably about 6 ½ feet tall.

Leaving this area and just for a marker I snapped a shot of the sign for Confusion Hill.

This looked to be a tourist trap and similar to Mystery Hill back in North Carolina.

Farther north we passed through the town of Piercy and then into Humboldt County. With the Eel River still teasing us, we had to stop. Just before crossing the bridge in photo 4487 we spotted a side road that we probably could access. Sure enough, a great place to stop for a bit.

The Eel River is amazingly clear. The different colors of the water were actually the changes to the bottom from rock to sand to plant life. There were so many shades of greens and blues here that it put Crayola to shame. They only wish their crayons could capture the variances of hues. For a couple of hours we soaked up the sunshine while listening to the slow flowing water, the birds and ducks and just being one with this spectacular bubble we just happened to drop into.

Do we stay for the night or move on? As wonderful as this spot was, the Redwoods called us to venture farther north. It wasn’t too much farther before we started seeing the huge trees lining the road. Then we reached Garberville.